Whenever we tour with first time visiting guests in Napa, and they announce that what they really like is Pinot Noir and Chardonnay, that presents a challenge. Napa produces plenty of these grapes in the Los Carneros district in the southern edge of the valley, but many of the ‘must see’ wineries are up valley in Oakville, Rutherford, St Helena and Calistoga, and that territory is distinctly Cabernet and Merlot land.
So, how do you venture into the north lands while still providing them with wines that are to their tastes? By knowing who up valley focuses on the Burgundy grapes! Your first stop should be in Los Carneros, just to get the lay of the land. Bouchaine, Acacia, Etude, Saintsbury, Artesa, Cuvaison, and even Domaine Carneros if they like sparkling wines, all do great tastings in the rolling hills of Carneros.
Once you head north one of your first stops should be at Robert Sinskey in the Stags Leap district. Even though they have vineyards surrounding their biodynamic winery where they grow Cabs and their cousins, the bulk of their vineyards are in the northern reaches of Carneros at the foot of Mount Veeder. They make five different Pinots, great chards, wonderful blends and a very entertaining Commander Zinskey Zinfandel, whose labels are installments in an ongoing saga.
This is one of the most delicious smelling wineries in the valley because they have a commercial kitchen where they produce wonderful food pairings that are part of the tasting. It makes a delicious experience. As I’ve noted before, if you are a Pinot fan then make an appointment at Failla, midway between St Helena and Calistoga on the Silverado Trail directly across from the Rombauer driveway. The grapes are sourced from Sonoma where they have more ideal conditions for the finicky Pinot, and if you like Pinot you will probably love these wines.
While Benessere is not a Pinot house, their love of Italian wines offers some nice variety from Cab Cab Cab all the time. Their rosato, Sangiovese, and Moscato compliment the delicacy of the Pinots so it makes a charming stop along the way.
Sad to say, there are not many more wineries to suggest up north, although many make a single Pinot, but with Sinskey and Failla you have covered a good part of the Valley. And since you probably have to head south anyway we’d suggest stopping in at Mumm Napa. While their winery is in Rutherford their vineyards are in Los Carneros across from Domaine Carneros. Sparkling wines are made primarily from Pinot and Chardonnay, and they often offer still versions (not bubbling) of these grapes for the purists. Anyway, at the end of a day of tasting, the lightness of sparkling wines is a wonderfully refreshing diversion.
So Pinot lovers, don’t give up hope when you visit the upper Napa Valley, it may not offer the variety that you find in ‘Pinot all the time’ Russian River Valley, but you are not going to die of thirst either.
|